Designed and manufactured by the legendary jeweler, Giorgio Bulgari, himself; this unique, magnificent jewel will delight even the most discerning collector. An exceptional example of Bulgari’s geometric High Jewelry of the 1930s; the bracelet’s articulated openwork panels are set throughout with circular, baguette and round brilliant-cut diamonds, with a combined diamond weight of 25.50 carats.
A unique High Jewelry creation that has more than stood the test of time; this captivating bracelet showcases Bulgari’s savoir-faire to stunning effect. Handcrafted in platinum to the highest standard, the bracelet is accompanied, unusually, by its 1930s ‘S. Bulgari’ suede jewelry box. A fabulous find: pre-war jewelry of such breathtaking craftsmanship, together with its original case, is extremely hard to come by.
A striking addition to any vintage Bulgari jewelry collection; important jewels of such individual rarity seldom come onto the open market and are hugely sought after.
An exceptional designer, Giorgio Bulgari is best known for his iconic Trombino ring: conceived in 1932, it remains one of the atelier’s most popular designs. Created during the same formative period; this one-of-a-kind vintage bracelet encapsulates Bulgari’s genius twist on the defining aesthetic of the time: Art Deco. Although clearly inspired by the geometric works of the traditional French school, there is an eye-catching Italian flair to the jewel’s standout design that differentiates it from its French counterparts. As eye-catching and indisputably high glamour as the Trombino — yet still, somehow, discrete — it is a masterpiece of form.
When the talented Greek silversmith, Sotirio Bulgari (originally Voulgaris), set up shop in Rome in 1884, he could not have conceived the internationally renowned jewelry house that it would quickly become. But, back then, Rome was an essential stop on any self-respecting traveller’s ‘Grand Tour’, and with the foreign tourists came good fortune. The well-to-do British and American visitors were intent on sourcing extravagant souvenirs to show off their wealth and worldliness to their neighbours back home. Far simpler to ship than a Roman sculpture , Bulgari’s exquisite, easily transportable silver ornaments, accessories and tableware proved just the ticket.
Business boomed, and in 1894 and 1905 Sotorio opened two stores on Via Condotti (where the Bulgari flagship remains to this day). At around the same time, Sortirio’s sons, Giorgio and Constantino, joined the company, bringing with them a whirlwind of change. The duo convinced their father that S. Bulgari should build on its silversmith reputation and turn its focus to High Jewelry. It was a genius move. With the brothers leading the way with new and innovative designs, the Italian jewelry house quickly began to make a name for itself. Heads of state, Hollywood, high society… the 1920s and 1930s saw Bulgari’s adoring client base extend to everyone who was anyone, including Prince Umberto of Italy; Princess Marie José of Belgium, and the American magnate, Robert Lehman
By the time of Sortorio’s death in 1932, Bvlgari — as it would soon officially become known — was world-famous for its exquisitely crafted, precious jewels.
Bulgari was undoubtedly influenced by his many trips to Paris, for the French capital ruled supreme as the undisputed centre of fashion and creative jewelry design. Importantly, its jewelers had recently discovered new ways of successfully crafting platinum (previously, an unpopular, notoriously tricky metal to fashion, due to its high melting point). Combined with the precious metal’s strength and substance, these new techniques enabled designs with a level of intricacy, delicacy and detail never before seen. The timing was impeccable. For platinum’s pure white, sophisticated brilliance proved the perfect match for the avant-garde designs of the machine-age that were to follow.
By the early 1930s, monochromatic platinum and diamond jewelry — as featured in the 1929 Paris Exhibition — had become the must-have of the rich and famous. With this platinum and diamond Art Deco bracelet, Bulgari proved he was a master of the style.
Designed to be worn with the ‘entitled insouciance’ that so characterised the age; the jewel is, nevertheless, a work of great complexity. Giorgio’s inspired, precise use of collet and pavé-set diamonds of contrasting forms and cuts maximises their precious play of light to glorious effect. Immaculately handcrafted, the perfectly weighted openwork panels afford a lightness and fluidity of form. Unusually for a jewel of such substance, the bracelet sits beautifully on the wrist, retaining its delightful, continuous form. Bulgari’s unique artistry extends even to the bracelet’s concealed clasps. Invisible to the eye when worn, the clasps’ perfect design ensures the High Jewel’s seamless beauty. It is a bracelet that dazzles for a myriad of reasons.
Antique jewelry of the highest quality, this platinum and diamond Art Deco bracelet’s importance cannot be understated. Indeed, its innovative architecture and industrial motif are echoed in some of the atelier’s most successful collections, including the ever-popular Parentesi. As with the Trombino, this unique, rare jewel continues to make its presence felt in the Bulgari of today.
A High Jewel of historical value, this unapologetically beautiful, early work by Gorgio Bulgari will take pride of place in any vintage jewelry collection. To discover how to make it yours, please contact Janus Jewels.